Cares Gorge (Ruta del Cares)

The Cares Gorge: Spain's Most Spectacular Mountain Trail

Carved over millennia by the churning Cares River, the Cares Gorge (Garganta del Cares) slices dramatically through the limestone heart of the Picos de Europa, separating the Central and Western Massifs. The 12-kilometer trail that clings to its walls — the legendary Ruta del Cares — is arguably the most breathtaking day hike in Spain, a suspended catwalk of stone chiseled into vertical cliff faces hundreds of meters above the roaring river below. Locals call it "La Divina" (The Divine), and once you've walked it, you'll understand why.

What Makes the Cares Gorge Special

The trail was originally built in the 1940s to maintain the hydroelectric canal that still runs alongside much of the path, feeding water from León to the power station at Camarmeña. What began as a workers' access route has become one of Europe's most iconic mountain walks. You'll pass through tunnels blasted from raw rock, cross precarious-looking stone bridges over dizzying drops, and share the path with the occasional herd of goats that seem utterly unfazed by the abyss.

The scenery is relentlessly dramatic. Sheer limestone walls rise up to 2,000 meters on either side, sometimes narrowing so tightly that only a slice of sky remains visible. Griffon vultures wheel overhead, egyptian vultures nest in the crags, and if you're lucky, you might spot a chamois picking its way across seemingly impossible ledges.

Hiking the Ruta del Cares

The classic Ruta del Cares hike runs between Poncebos (Asturias, in the north) and Caín (León, to the south). It's 12 km one-way, meaning a full out-and-back is roughly 24 km with about 900 meters of cumulative elevation gain. Most hikers complete the round trip in 6–8 hours.

Direction matters. Starting from Poncebos, the first 3 km climb steadily and are the toughest section — a lung-burning ascent up exposed switchbacks known as "Los Collaos." Once you reach the high point, the trail levels out and becomes a stunning traverse etched into the cliffside all the way to Caín. Starting from Caín is gentler at first, with the descent to Poncebos saved for the end.

Difficulty: Technically the trail is not difficult — it's wide (1.5–2 meters in most places), well-maintained, and requires no scrambling. However, it is long, entirely exposed to sun, and terrifying for anyone with vertigo. The drops in places are sheer and unfenced. Take it seriously.

What to bring:

• At least 2 liters of water per person (there are no reliable sources on the trail itself)
• Sturdy hiking shoes with grip — the polished limestone gets slick
• Sun hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses (there is almost no shade)
• Snacks or a packed lunch
• A headlamp if you're a slow walker in shoulder season
• Layers — the gorge creates its own microclimate and shaded tunnels are cold

The Villages at Each End

Poncebos is little more than a car park, two hotels, and a bar-restaurant, but it's the practical launch pad if you're coming from Asturias. From here you can also detour up to Bulnes, a car-free village accessible only via the funicular railway or a steep footpath — a worthwhile add-on if you have time.

Caín, on the León side, is far prettier: a tiny stone hamlet cradled by cliffs, with a handful of casas rurales, a couple of restaurants serving hearty cocido lebaniego and trout from the river, and a wonderfully atmospheric arrival if you complete the whole trail.

Logistics: Doing the Trail One-Way

Many hikers prefer to hike the trail one-way to avoid the return leg. This requires a shuttle service or pre-booked taxi, since the drive between Poncebos and Caín takes over two hours around the massif. Several local operators run seasonal shuttles — expect to pay around €35–45 per person. Book in advance in summer.

Best Time to Visit

Late April through late October is the safe window. Winter brings ice, rockfall, and occasional trail closures — genuinely dangerous conditions that have caused fatalities. May, June, and September are ideal: mild temperatures, long daylight, and manageable crowds. July and August are hot (25–30°C in the gorge itself) and busy, with hundreds of walkers on the path on weekends. Start by 8:00 AM in summer to beat both the heat and the crowds.

Getting There

The Cares Trail sits inside Picos de Europa National Park, straddling Asturias and Castilla y León. The nearest sizeable town on the Asturian side is Arenas de Cabrales (10 km north of Poncebos), reachable by ALSA bus from Oviedo or Cangas de Onís. In summer, a shuttle runs from Arenas to Poncebos — essential, as the small Poncebos car park fills before 9:00 AM.

From the León side, Caín is accessed via Posada de Valdeón, itself a scenic 30-minute drive from Potes in Cantabria. Having your own car offers maximum flexibility, though roads are narrow and winding.

Practical Tips and Insider Knowledge

• There is no entry fee — the trail is free and open access, part of the national park.
• No permits are required for day hiking.
• Toilets are essentially non-existent on the trail. Use facilities at Poncebos or Caín before setting off.
• Cash is useful in Caín and Poncebos — small bars and casas rurales don't always accept cards.
• Watch for goats and their gifts on the trail; the path can be slippery with droppings in sections.
• Do not attempt in heavy rain — falling rocks are a real hazard, and the tunnels flood quickly.
• Mobile signal is patchy at best. Download offline maps beforehand.
• If you only have half a day, hike the first 5 km from Caín — it's the most spectacular section, threading through the narrowest part of the gorge and its most famous tunnels.

Where to Eat and Stay Nearby

After the hike, reward yourself in Arenas de Cabrales with a plate of the region's namesake Cabrales blue cheese, aged in local mountain caves and paired best with a glass of Asturian sidra (cider) poured theatrically from height. Casa Julián and Mesón Castañeu are reliable local favorites. For accommodation, Hotel Poncebos offers no-frills convenience at the trailhead, while Arenas de Cabrales and Cangas de Onís provide more comfortable and characterful options.

Whether you tackle the full traverse or just sample a few kilometers, walking the Cares Trail in Picos de Europa is the kind of experience that recalibrates your sense of scale — a reminder of how small and beautifully insignificant a human is when the mountains lean in this close.